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Friday, 14 October 2011

Fish

Today we got up early but not quite as early as yesterday to go on our trip to the Barrier Reef. We had time for brek in the hotel, and I had anaemic hotel toast with vegemite. Dad said that this made my Aussie education complete. Vegemite is very much like Marmite but it just lacks that tangy je-ne-sais-quoi that the mighty Marmite has. Sure, it's fine for a nation that can't quite take proper Marmite just yet, but there's no substitute for the real thing. There was excitement when a desiccated old chap inserted some bread where it wasn't meant to go and the toaster caught fire. A perky blonde guest alerted the staff while the crusty in question pretended it wasn't anything to do with him. Or possibly didn't even notice anything was happening...

We got on another granny bus, bigger this time but without quite so many concentrated grannies. It drove us the 10 minutes' walk to the marina, where we stood in a queue and were then directed to the wrong boat, viz. the romantic sailing catamaran going to the Low Isles. Dad had made a mistake with the booking, but a regulation perky blonde was very happy to take another $110 off of us to upgrade to the proper big catamaran to the outer reef. Got on board the wave piercing vessel, the like of which Dad had investigated on a company jolly in 1989 with a view to buying bigger versions for the Sealink routes. On the advice of various people I took a seasickness pill, but this was unnecessary as it was a perfect day with no swell at all. Motored out for about 90 mins to the moored pontoon, while being invited by various perky blondes to spend more money on helicopter rides, scuba diving etc. and so forth. They also invited us to rent, at minimal cost it has to be said, lycra suits to keep off the deadly poisonous killer stinging murderous jellyfish. I had been led to believe these were out of season, but apparently the season is just about to start and someone had already been proper stung just down the coast. Was scared enough to hand over $5

The lycra suit turned out to be ok, but it did make one look like a cross between a portly Marcel Marceau and Jacques Cousteau in his twilight years. I didn't mind because by this stage (now on the pontoon thing) I was tremendously excited by the presence of actual fish, actually swimming around in the water all casual like. I could see them right there even as I was sitting on the submerged bench thing putting my flippers on. Off we went, and I have to say, dear Reader, that it was pretty amazing. Lots of coral, lots of fish, what more could you want? There were some big ugly ones that looked a bit scarey, and toiny ickle stripey ones that hung about just out of reach. There were also some giant clams, of the sort that trap unwary divers' legs and cause them to drown (according to a book I'm sure I remember reading years ago) - I gave them a wide berth of course. Took a few photos on the waterproof camera, and was so engrossed that I failed to realise that the current was about to wash us to Fiji. Dad did notice of course, so we made our way back to the pontoon and had some lunch.

After that we went on a thing they called a semi-submersible, but which was actually just a boat with windows in the bottom. Although it didn't submerse at all, it was still a good way of seeing some more distant bits of reef. We caught a glimpse of a Lazyarse shark (not sure that's the entirely correct name) which just sat on the bottom not even bothering to have anyone's leg off, and a couple of excellent turtles. Encouraged by the lack of any kind of jellyfish or motivated sharks, I went for another snorkel and saw more cool stuff. It made me want to learn to scuba and get down there.

Headed back at about 3 or so, and skipped the bus to walk back. We hung around for a bit then back into town for a pizza, which we decided was the only thing we were prepared to stump up for. This is an expensive town in an expensive country, and after a couple of days you start to notice that the prices are in Handley territory - the thing on the menu that amounts to posh fish and chips actually costs the best part of 30 notes.

Off to Perth tomorrow, where is is apparently 28 degrees. Hurrah!





Location:Park St,Port Douglas,Australia

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